Pattern for drafting shirt-bosoms



(No Model.)

- T. J. GOODWIN PATTERN FOR DRAPTINGYSHIRT BOSGMS, No; 501,339.

Patented July 11, 1893.

EQR

UNrTE ,TATES :ATENT OFFICE.

TERENCE J. GOODWIN, OF SYRACUSE, NEW YORK.

PATTERN FOR DRAFTING SHlRT-BOSOMS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent NO. 501,339, dated July 11, 1893.

Application filed March 11, 1893. Serial No. 465,558. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, TERENCE J. Goonwm, of Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga, in the State of New York, have invented .new and useful Improvements in Shirt-Patterns, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a full, clear,

and exact description.

My invention relates to improvements in patterns for drafting the bosom-pieces of shirts, and has for its object the production of a practical, simple, durable, and effective device consisting of adjustable plates or sections capable of ready adjustment for facilitating the drafting of a well fitting bosompiece for shirts.

The invention consists in the detail construction and arrangement of the parts, all as hereinafter more particularly described and pointed out in the claims.

In describingthis invention, reference is had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which like letters and figures indicate correspondingparts in all the views.

Figure 1 is a face view of my improved pattern. Fig. 2 is a similar view representing the pattern as somewhat distended, and Fig. 3 is a sectional view, taken on line 33, Fig. 2.

My present invention consists of a pattern, which is readily adjustable to any required size of bosom-piece for enabling an operator to readily and correctly draft a bosom-piece of the required size without the exercise of a high degree of skill. This pattern consists of the lengthwisely adjustable plate A- for regulating the length of the central portion of the bosom-piece, a top plate composed of lengthwisely adjustable arms BB extending laterally from one end of the plate A for regulating the width of the upper end of the bosom-piece, a bottom plate consisting of lengthwisely adjustable arms OC extending laterally from the opposite end of the plate -A- for regulating the width of the lower end of the bosom-piece, and the lengthwisely adjustable side plates D.D having their upper ends securedto the outer ends of the arms -B-B- and their opposite ends secured to the corresponding ends of the arms -CC for regulating the length and contour ofthe longitudinal sides of the bosompiece.

, The plate -A consists of the sections 0LCt' having their inner or adjacent ends lapped one upon the other and provided with lengthwise slots a a e-- is secured to the lower or inner end of the section a, and is formed with a shank e' registered with the slot -a in the section a, and with ashouldere bearing against the under face of said section a. This lug serves to guide the sections -aa in their lengthwise movement, and this guiding action is facilitated by the shank f of the clamp F, which may be of any desirable construction for clamping said sections aa'- in their adjusted position and aiding in guiding said sections in their adjustable movement.

As best seen at Fig. 3 the shank f of the clamp -F' is passed through an opening 'a* in the upper or inner end of the section -a-, is registered with the slot a of the section -o,-, and is provided at one end with a shoulder bearing against the under face of the section a. A nut f is movable on the opposite end of the shank f and bears against the'upper face of the section -a.

The section --a of the plate -A is provided with a scale 1*, along which is movable the lower edge aof the section a'. This scale -1 is formed with graduations 12%, 13, 14, &c., to 18 extending from the lower end of the section -atoward its central portion, and serves to regulate the length of the central portion of the bosompiece. It will thus be readily apparent that the plate --A- is quickly adjusted length- A suitable lug wisely until the desired graduation is exposed ICO arm B are provided with lengthwise slots b and the inner end of the section b'- of each arm -Bis provided with a luge,

which is registered with the slot -b in the corresponding section b, and is of the same construction as the lug -epreviously described. The outer end of each section -b is provided with the clamp -F-- similar to the clampFpreviously described,and this latter clamp F is movable lengthwiscly in the slot b in the corresponding section b, and serves to firmly secure together the sections of the arm -B provided therewith when said sections are adjusted to their desired position. Each of the sections b is provided with a scale 2 along which is movable the inner edge b of the corresponding section b-, and these scales are provided with graduations 7 8- and 9 extending outwardly from the inner ends of said sections bb-.

The arms CO for regulating the width of the lower end of the bosom-piece are each composed of sections cc', the sections ccbeing fixedly secured to the opposite or lower end of the plate A in any desired manner, and the sections c'c being movable lengthwisely upon the sections cc. The sections cc are preferably formed integral with the lower end of the section aof the plate A as best seen at Fig. 2. These arms CC- are of less length than the arms -BB, and the sections cc'- thereof are provided with lengthwise slots c The outer end of each of the sections c is provided with a clamp -F similar to the clamp --F previously described, and said clamps serve to firmly secure the sections c' to said sections c. Each of the sections c is provided with a scale 3, along which is movable the inner edge c of the corresponding section c, and these scales are provided with graduations7-- -8 and 9 extending outwardly from the inner ends of said sectionscc. It will thus be readily understood that the arms BB--GC project from the plate --A-in planes at substantially right angles therewith, and are adjusted lengthwiscly in planes at substantially right angles to the plane of adjustment of the plate A-, and consequently the longitudinal edges of said arms BBOC are substan tially perpendicular to the corresponding edges of the plate A-.

The plates -DD- for regulating the length and the inclination of the sides of the bosom-piece are each of similar construction, and are composed of sections d(l', the sections --(lof each plate D being secured to the outer end of the section bof the corresponding arm B--, and the section d' being secured to the outer end of the section -cof the corresponding arm As preferably constructed the upper end of the section (lof each plate D- is hinged by a suitable pivotal pin d to the outer end of the section bof the corresponding arm B-, and the lower end of the section dis preferably formed integral with the section cof the corresponding arm 0 The adjacent or innerends of the sections ddare formed with lengthwise slots d*, and movable in said slots are two lugs ee-, which are of similar construction to the lugs epreviously described, and are secured respectively to thelowerend of the section dand to the upper end of the section -cZ'. The longitudinal edges of the lower ends of the sectionsdcZ-- of the plates D-D- are curved inwardly for giving the desired contour to the bottom portions of the longitudinal edges of the bosompiece when drafted by marking around the edge of my improved pattern.

It will be readily understood by one skilled in the art that, as the plate A-is adjusted lengthwisely in conformity with the desired length of the bosom-piece, the side plates DD- are also adjusted lengthwiscly, and that their sections -dd swing upon the pivotal pins d for facilitating the ready adjustment of-my improved pattern.

In order that my invention may be readily understood I have shown the same at Fig. 2 as adjusted for a bosom piece of a shirt bosom fifteen inches long and nine inches wide. Consequently the division 15 is exposed beneath the lower edge a of the section a', and the divisions 9- are exposed at the inner sides of the edges b -c of the sections bc' at the opposite ends of the plate A.

My pattern may be similarly adjusted to any other measurement of the bosom-piece, and, after the pattern is adjusted, the bosompiece may be readily drafted by placingthe pattern upon the fabric and marking around the outer edge of said pattern. It is apparent that one of the arms B, the corresponding arm O, and the interposed side plate D may be dispensed with, and that the bosom-piece can then be readily drafted by folding the fabric and placing the folded edge directly beneath the longitudinal center line of the lengthwise plate -A, and by then marking around the edges of the remaining plate D- and the arms BC. It is also evident that, if desired, the central plate A may be dispensed with, and the sections bc' of the arms B(J may then be supported directly upon the sections b-c of said arms, which, as previously stated, are secured to the lengthwiscly adj ustable side plates D-D-. ever, no material modification of my invention.

The operation of my invention will be readily perceived from the foregoing description and upon reference to the drawings, and it will be particularly noted that the same is simple, practical, durable, and elfective.

Having thus fully described my invention,

This is, howwhat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is l 1. The herein described pattern for the bosom-piece of a shirt, the same comprising a lengthwisely adjustable plate A, having a substantially straight longitudinal edge an arm 13 extending laterally from one end of the plate -A and consisting of sections lapping with each other and adj ustable lengthwisely in a plane at substantially right angles to the plane of adjustment of the plate A- one of said sections being fixedly secured to the plate A, an arm O extending laterally from the opposite end of the plate A and consisting of sections lapping with each other and adjustable lengthwisely in a plane at substantially right angles to the plane of adj ustment of the plate A- one of said sec-' tions being fixedly secured to the plate -A, and a lengthwisely adjustable side plate -D- having one extremity secured to the outer end of the arm B and the other extremity secured to the corresponding end of the arm O- and formed with a longitudinal edge turned inwardly, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The herein described pattern for the bosom-piece of a shirt, the same comprising a lengthwisely adjustable plate having a substantially straight longitudinal edge, and composed of a section a provided with a scale 1 and a section a movable lengthwisely of said scale 1, a lengthwisely adjustable arm B- extending laterally from one end of the plate -A and composed of a section --b fixedly secured to said end of the plate A- and provided with a scale 2, and a section b movable lengthwisely of the scale -2, a lengthwisely adj ustable arm --0 extending laterally from the opposite end of the plate A- and composed of a section c fixedly secured to said opposite end of the plate A and provided with ascale 3-, and a section c movable lengthwise of the scale 2, and a lengthwisely adjustable plate D- having one extremity secured .to the outer end of the arm B- and the other extremity secured to the corresponding end of the arm O and formed with a longitudinal edge curved inwardly, substantially as specified.

3. The herein described pattern for the bosom-piece of a shirt, the same comprising a lengthwisely adjustable plate -A-, an upper plate composed of arms BB extending laterally from opposite sides of one end of the plate A- and each consisting of sections lapping With each other and adjustable lengthwisely in a plane at substantially right angles to the plane of adjustment of the plate A- one of the sections of each of said arms being fixedly secured to the plate A, a lowerplate composed of arms O-O- of less length than the arms B B extending laterally from opposite sides of the opposite end of the plate --A- and each consisting of sections lapping with each-other and adj ustable lengthwisely in a plane at substantially right angles to the plane of adjustment of the plate -A one of the sections of each of said arms being fixedly secured tothe plate A, and lengthwisely adjustable side plates DD- having corresponding extremities secured to the outer ends of the arms B- B- and having their opposite extremities secured to the corresponding ends of the arms C-O and each formed with a longitudinal; inwardly turned edge, substantially as described.

4, The herein described pattern for the bosom-piece of a shirt, the same comprising a lengthwisely adjustable plate composed of a section -a provided with a scale -1 and a section a' movable lengthwisely of said scale 1-, an upper plate composed of arms -B-B- extending laterally from opposite sides of one end of the plate A, said arms being each composed of a section bfixedly secured to one end of the plate A and provided with a scale 2 and a section b movable lengthwisely of the scale -2, a lower plate composed of arms OC of less length than the arms B B, said arms being each composed of a section c fixedly secured to the plate A and provided with a scale 8 and a section -c movable lengthwisely of the scale 2-, and lengthwisely adjustable side plates DD having corresponding extremities secured to the outer ends of the arms -B- B- and having their opposite extremities fixedly secured to the corresponding ends of the arms CC-, said opposite extremities of the side plates D-D having longitudinal edges curved inwardly, substantially as set forth. 5. The herein described pattern for the bosom-piece of a shirt, the same comprising lengthwisely adjustable arms B.-B each having a substantially straight longitudinal edge, lengthwisely adj ustable arms CO disposed in a plane substantially parallel with that of the arms -B-B and each'having a substantially straight longitudinal edge, and lengthwisely adjustable side plates D- D having corresponding ends secured to the outer ends of the arms -BBand having their opposite ends secured to the outer ends of the arms O -C-- and provided with longitudinal edges having their upper por tions substantially perpendicular to the substantially straight longitudinal edge of the arms'BB- and having their lower ends curved inwardly,- as and for the purpose specified.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name, in thepresence of two attesting witnesses, at Syracuse,-in the county of Onondaga, in the State of New York, this 27th day of February, 1893. 

